Baby, it’s cold outside
Cool growing conditions have dominated the 2025 growing season so far. We are experiencing what many think is the coldest summer in 40+ years here in Central and Northern California with San Francisco on the record last week calling it “the coldest summer for the city since 1982.” A common question we receive at the Tasting Room is “What does this do to the grapes?”
The marine layer over the Volatus tasting room slowly burning off.
If we use 2023 as a reference, another very cool vintage, the ultimate results could be spectacular. The 23 vintage began with significant rainfall over winter and cool conditions dominated almost the entire season. The ample sun and cool temps allowed the grapes to stay on the vine longer and build incredible color, flavor, and aroma while maintaining perfect acidity. With all of our 23 wine in bottle, I can confidently say it is one of the best vintages in Paso since I started over 27 years ago. It is, of course, worth stating we rarely have a bad vintage. In fact, the average vintage in Paso is well above average but some are superlative.
A cool morning with the Pinot Noir
So far, 2025 reminds me of the 23 season with a few exceptions. Overall, rainfall amounts were lower across Paso last winter with huge variation dependent upon location. At the tasting room and many of our west side vineyards, 20+” of rain was common but the totals fell off precipitously the further east you traveled. Some our south east Paso vineyards received only average rainfall. Regardless, the rain season was well above drought levels and the vineyards whether dry farmed or irrigated are looking great.
We have also seen increased cloud cover in a heavier marine layer deeper into the summer this year. This is true across most of Paso but the burn off times are much later on the west side. While the overcast skies keep the temps lower, the UV light levels are reduced and there is increased mildew risk.
The final, big difference this year is the wind and what/where it blows. At our western vineyards and at the tasting room, the winds have been crazy with most days at or exceeding 20 mph. The winds are some of the freshest air in the world and bring in the cool temps associated with the eastern Pacific. The effect has created what you could call “A Tale of Two Pasos.” As an example, although forecast temperatures for Paso are in the 80s, our tasting room and associated vineyards may be in the 60s. The cooling impact of the breeze is huge in Willow Creek and the Templeton Gap but fades relatively quickly as you head east or in areas shielded from the wind by terrain. Even the days this year when we did reach the mid 80s the winds would start around 1130 and cool us down by noon.
You can never tell what the rest of the season will bring but I would like a bit more heat as we approach August. There is some heat in the forecast next week but, once again, where we are is only expected to reach the low 80s. This would be great if the wind lays down just a bit.
At this point all of our vineyards are looking good although a few weeks behind normal. Walking vineyards the other morning, there is a bit more shatter in the south east but the other vines and grapes are looking good. At the end of July, it is not yet time to worry as there is plenty of time remaining to ripen the grapes. It is not uncommon to pick fruit late into October and even into mid-November. This is what we did in 23 and it worked well. With that said, we did lose a couple deep west side Cabernet vineyards to cool temps and frost. As you will often hear me say, a cool growing season is great unless it rains or starts to frost in October.
Bottom line, I am good at many things but have yet to learn to control the weather. So in the meantime, I will reference the Irish blessing. “God, grant me the serenity to accept the things I cannot change, courage to change the things I can, and wisdom to know the difference.
Fight’s On!
Bull Schmitt